Month: March 2017

  • South America – Ecuador 2017

    South America – Ecuador 2017

    [vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Our flights from Arequipa through Lima in Peru and then into Quito, Ecuador were thankfully uneventful. The scenery was beautiful when low enough to see it.

    We had arranged transfers to and from airports for all of our trip – it is so much easier particularly when you don’t speak the language and always feels a bit special seeing your name on a sign like someone important! Our driver for Quito was a lovely man and we saw him often at the hotel we stayed at – La Cartuja Hotel situated in the new city, which is about a 40-minute drive from the airport and perched above the greater city area on a cliffside. There was lots to see and do within close walking distance and plenty of restaurants which was very handy given that we made this our base while also doing a 4-day cruise around the Galapagos Islands and 2 days in the Bellavista Cloud Forest.

    We were very pleased that we chose Cometa Travel to arrange our tours (on recommendation from our sister, Yasha). Every part of it was perfect and more than met our expectations.

    There was just one little drawback. It seems that Bron’s health wasn’t content with playing up in Peru with infection and altitude sickness. Once we got on the yacht Angelito 1 in the Galapagos, disaster strikes again. This time with every traveller’s worst nightmare – traveller’s diarrhoea! Yes folks – adhere to those warnings to carry antibiotics always – simple Immodium will not challenge this vicious affliction.

    However, despite being stuck in the cabin for half the time, and inconveniencing other passengers by making a nighttime diversion to San Cristobal Island for hospital treatment, this place is just stunning. Our recommendations are to book a cruise with a maximum number of passengers of less than twenty (ours had 14 but the max was 16), stay at least 7 days (we only had 4) and be prepared to fall in love with the unique beauty of it all. Bob did all the tours, walking along the stunning beaches, up close and personal with the amazing wildlife, snorkelling in clear blue waters with turtles, iguanas and sea lions, bush walking to understand the geology and ecology of the islands, socialising with the other passengers and taking lots of photos. Bron met the giant tortoises, watched the activity from the cabin, enjoyed the stretcher portage, zodiac transport and ambulance ride, and on the final day – an early morning cruise in the zodiacs through the mangrove swamp to see the bird and water life.

    We are not ruling out a return trip for longer some day and much better health to enjoy it will be the order of the day!!!!

    Our trip to the Bellavista Cloud Forest was truly beautiful. Whilst not being completely well, we both participated in the long bushwalks each day getting to see all manner of birds, insects, orchids and worms, as well as vistas through the valleys and cloud forest canopy. The hummingbirds were a definite favourite. The food was also beautiful and in abundant supply. The whole ethos is very much about caring for the environment and encouraging people to explore and value its beauty and uniqueness. We certainly did that. Again, if we were to make a change to this itinerary it would be to stay longer.

    We were also disappointed that the only bit of the Quito Old City that we experienced was on our way back to the hotel after visiting the cloud forest and as we dropped off some fellow adventurers at their hotel. What we saw was very beautiful and we do believe we missed something special.

    All too soon our time in Ecuador came to an end. But we want to mention another highlight of our journey. We met some pretty amazing and interesting and very personable people. They are happy to chat and share their stories, are keen to support or provide advice, great for a laugh over food and/or drink and create more colours in your memories than you would ever expect. We felt truly blessed in Ecuador – everyone we met whether fellow travellers, yacht crew, guides or hotel staff, were just wonderful.

    Next stop – Buenos Aires, Argentina.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_gmaps link=”#E-8_JTNDaWZyYW1lJTIwc3JjJTNEJTIyaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZ3d3cuZ29vZ2xlLmNvbSUyRm1hcHMlMkZlbWJlZCUzRnBiJTNEJTIxMW0xOCUyMTFtMTIlMjExbTMlMjExZDgxNzExNDcuODQ4OTg5NjE3JTIxMmQtOTEuODgwMzg1MDg1NjYyODElMjEzZC0wLjAwNzU1Njk5MDYzNTMxMDY1MiUyMTJtMyUyMTFmMCUyMTJmMCUyMTNmMCUyMTNtMiUyMTFpMTAyNCUyMTJpNzY4JTIxNGYxMy4xJTIxM20zJTIxMW0yJTIxMXMweDlhYWE5MmVlMzE5ZjJjYmYlMjUzQTB4OTViZWJjNjM4Mzk4NDZmMiUyMTJzR2FsJTI1QzMlMjVBMXBhZ29zJTJCSXNsYW5kcyUyNTJDJTJCRWN1YWRvciUyMTVlMCUyMTNtMiUyMTFzZW4lMjEyc3VrJTIxNHYxNDg4OTgwNDY3NzQzJTIyJTIwd2lkdGglM0QlMjI2MDAlMjIlMjBoZWlnaHQlM0QlMjI0NTAlMjIlMjBmcmFtZWJvcmRlciUzRCUyMjAlMjIlMjBzdHlsZSUzRCUyMmJvcmRlciUzQTAlMjIlMjBhbGxvd2Z1bGxzY3JlZW4lM0UlM0MlMkZpZnJhbWUlM0U=”][/vc_column][/vc_row]

  • South America – Peru 2017

    South America – Peru 2017

    [vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]On the first day of 2017, we enthusiastically set off on our Journey to South America. The first stage was three weeks in Peru to visit with Bron’s sister and brother-in-law, Yasha and Juergen, who are overlanders travelling in the beautiful Berta through South America. You may like to follow their journey here. You will also find an interesting read about our visit to them here.

    Yasha and Bron had not spent time together for almost 4 years (except for fairly regular skype chats) and having lost both their parents in 2016 felt that time together was just what their hearts and souls needed. A bit of a pity that their bodies also seemed to need some healing as, during the short time available, much of it was spent either battling the impact of the high altitude or the nasty virus that attacked them both. But just being together was a great tonic and we still got to see pretty much everything we set out to.

    Yasha met us on arrival at Cusco airport and after catching up with Juergen and Berta at their campsite, we set off for the slightly lower altitude of Pisac for a few days to acclimatise and recover. They had found lovely accommodations for us attached to the Dona Clorinda restaurant, which set the standard for breakfasts for the rest of the trip! We also dined there 2 of the 3 nights because the food was fabulous. And Berta was parked nearby so that fresh tea could be delivered to our room by Yasha each morning!!

    Whilst in Pisac we took some time visiting the nearby Inca ruins, bought supplies in the local market and started to buy our souvenirs from the expansive artisan market. The colours in Peru are a sight to behold as are the incredible range of products created from alpaca fleece.

    Our next stop was Ollantaytambo which was the starting point for a train journey and bus trip to the breathtaking Machu Picchu. We went on our own as Yasha and Juergen had been before so they stayed to soak up a festival occurring in Ollantaytambo at the time. The train journey through the valley to Aguas Calientes availed us of amazing views of the Andes – albeit from a different perspective than our flights above them. After settling into our hotel and checking out the town we retired early to make a prompt start for the bus trip the following day.  However, despite the early start, about 250 people beat us so we were on about the 8th bus up the switchback mountain road – in the morning mist. At first we set off for the Sun Gate where most of the trekkers enter the Machu Picchu ruins. We met some of them along the way who suggested that due to the fog and mist we would not benefit from making the last 10 minute climb to see nothing. So we turned and made our way back to see the ruins. These appeared just as we came to the first viewing area and the fog made a timely departure. No words or even photos will adequately describe the pure awesomeness of these ruins. The day fulfilled a life goal and, despite sharing it with many others, the experience will stay with us always. Well worth one visit in your lifetime if you can possibly prioritise it.  There are some photos in the gallery but be warned that they can not do it justice!!

    We returned to Ollantaytambo that afternoon and awoke the following morning anticipating the steep climb up the ruins that overlook the town. We still did it despite Yasha and Bron experiencing the same viral symptoms. The severe shortness of breath, painful chest and not infrequent coughing could take nothing from the views or the wonder at the detailed stonework that is a significant mark of Incan construction.

    Upon descent, we made our way to Urubamba and eventually found lodgings at Wayqey Lodge. Absolutely perfect. Fully self-contained two bedroom unit where Yasha and Bron took to the beds, Bob provided all nursing, cooking and supply gathering duties and Juergen endeavoured to not succumb to the virus (unsuccessfully as it happens). Thank goodness for minor miracles, local pharmacies and some limited Spanish skills. After 5 days of bed rest and nurturing we arose to continue the journey taking in the nearby agricultural site of Moray and Maras salt pans. Pretty amazing!!

    We then returned to Cusco and the lovely Ninos Hotel (which actively supports the welfare of children in Cusco). Yasha and Juergen returned to their campsite above the Saksaywaman historical Incan site (which we unfortunately missed out on exploring) and joined us during the day to explore the sites of the city. Our time here was shortened but we still had a chance to get a taste of the square, cathedrals, and shops.

    With only one week left of our time in Peru we left Cusco and headed toward Puno and Lake Titicata, enjoying the unique experience of crossing the Altiplano, with a stop off to break the journey at Sicuani. We had a strange experience of being given Room 101 here and at 3 other hotels in Peru. Room 101 is a BBC TV show in which guest celebrities vie to have their pet hates banished to Room 101 – a room inspired by George Orwell’s novel, 1984, where the worst things in the world are placed. We were a bit worried that this was a message for us!! We also visited the famous Raqcui ruins where the four of us accidentally became stars for an advertising campaign for a luxury coach tour company!!

    And then onto Puno and the beautiful Lake Titicata with its floating islands made of reeds. Whilst this was very tourist oriented the islanders are very happy to share their lifestyle and offer their handmade memorabilia for purchase. These items are very beautiful and the hospitality of the locals second to none. This was a brief but very happy visit to one of the world’s iconic spots.

    Our last journey took us across the mountains and finally to a lower altitude to the beautiful city of Arequipa – its white sillar stone buildings making it one of Peru’s most beautiful places. We spent our last few days together there, and despite having our camera and all our Peru photos stolen, we enjoyed the museums, convents, beautiful homes, cathedrals and of course Peruvian food, cakes and ice cream. Not to mention the shopping!!! Or the stunning Hostal Las Mercedes. 

    All too soon we slipped off in the early hours of the morning, having said our farewells the previous evening, to catch our flight to Quito, Ecuador and the next leg of our amazing South American adventure.

    We wish to acknowledge the photography of Yasha and Juergen for many of the photos in our gallery for this section of their journey. We do so hope that the kind gentleman who procured our camera enjoyed the photos of the earlier parts of our visit to Peru!!!!![/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_gmaps link=”#E-8_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”][/vc_column][/vc_row]

  • South America – Argentina 2017

    South America – Argentina 2017

    [vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Our arrival in Buenos Aires at about 4.30 am was rather sublime. We were met by our tour representative and driven through very quiet streets to our hotel in the Palermo district, Clasico Hotel. We were understandably tired from flying overnight so after securing an early check in we retreated to our room for much-needed sleep.

    On awakening, we decided to take a good look around the local area – seeking out our bank ATM and a recommended money exchange. We found both fairly easily but also found beautiful buildings on tree-lined streets, lovely cafes, restaurants and ice cream shops, colourful markets and gardens. We happened to be in one of the most beautiful and comfortable areas that also appeared to be very safe.

    We were very thankful to our tour planner/operators – Tourradar and Say Hueque who helped us plan for and experience the highlights of Buenos Aires and Iguazu. Not only was the hotel perfectly situated but the tours we booked provided us with amazing experiences.

    Our second day in Buenos Aires was spent on a tour of the city visiting such places as the Plaza de Mayo (including the Casa Rosada where Eva Peron famously addressed her people from the balcony, Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral – the former parish of the current Pope, and the square itself which has been the site of many rebellions, protests and political change), the La Boca district (home of the tango and originally many European – particularly Italian – settlers with their colourful corrugated iron buildings painted in the colours of the boat they arrived on and amazing statues), and the beauty of the old docklands and numerous parklands. A quick rest in the afternoon and then we were off to our dinner and tango show. Sensational Argentine cuisine and an elaborate display of tango dancing mixed with some performances of historical Argentine cultural songs. We were lucky enough to be seated with a lovely couple from near Reading in England (whose contact details we have regrettably lost) and together we had a brilliant night.

    It was an early start the next day as we were heading to Puerto Iguazu to see the stunning Iguazu Falls the following day. We signed up for a boat cruise late that afternoon and were taken to the point where the Iguazu and Parana rivers meet – and consequently the junction of Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay. The commentary was most helpful in understanding the geography, but what struck us most was how suddenly we felt we had gatecrashed someone’s party. As soon as the commentary ended two guys started their musical performance with those on board joining in with much loud singing and dancing. We recognised a few tunes but couldn’t remember the English lyrics. On return to our hotel – the amazing El Pueblito hotel surrounded by parklands full of flora and fauna – we had possibly the best baked fish dinner ever!

    Another of my life goals was fulfilled when we visited Iguazu Falls. Always afraid of heights and unsure above water, the thought of walking out on mesh walkways sometimes high above rushing water, was daunting at best. But true to my recent decision to throw myself into the experience as much as possible I just got on with it. And the Falls did not disappoint on any level. They are truly awesome, stunning and amazing – both visually and audibly. So much water was roaring over the many falls and everywhere you looked was more. And in the afternoon we got on a boat with about 50 other people and got absolutely drenched as we were taken under the falls. Definitely breathtaking, as the water tumbled over and gave us more than a shower. It took quite a while to dry off but since we had the most gorgeous weather for this adventure neither of us minded at all.

    Bob went alone the next morning to view the falls from the Brazil side. As a British citizen, he didn’t have the same problems organising a visa as I had. So he was charged with taking as many photos as possible. They provide a unique perspective of the massive entirety of Iguazu Falls. There is just no way of really capturing the magic and majesty of this phenomena so hopefully the photos in the gallery will give you a taste. This should be on everyone’s must-do list.

    We had a couple more days to enjoy Buenos Aires before our return flight to the UK. So we filled them with walks through the Botanical Gardens, Japanese Garden and Recoleta Cemetery. And of course partaking in the all the food options Argentina has to offer.

    All too soon our time in South America was over and we returned to London on a rather cold day – an abrupt wake up from our last few balmy days in Argentina.

    What a wonderful experience we had – one we will never forget. We are truly blessed with the life we live and cherish the opportunity to enjoy these experiences, first hand and later as beautiful memories.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_gmaps link=”#E-8_JTNDaWZyYW1lJTIwc3JjJTNEJTIyaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZ3d3cuZ29vZ2xlLmNvbSUyRm1hcHMlMkZlbWJlZCUzRnBiJTNEJTIxMW0xOCUyMTFtMTIlMjExbTMlMjExZDQ2MDE5NS40NDQ1ODQyMjYlMjEyZC01NC43MTY4MTc1Nzg0NjY1MDQlMjEzZC0yNS42OTUyNTQxNDk3MTQ5NzMlMjEybTMlMjExZjAlMjEyZjAlMjEzZjAlMjEzbTIlMjExaTEwMjQlMjEyaTc2OCUyMTRmMTMuMSUyMTNtMyUyMTFtMiUyMTFzMHg5NGY2ZWEwY2EzYWExYjZkJTI1M0EweDkxN2I3NTE3OWM1ZTk4N2UlMjEyc0lndWF6dSUyQkZhbGxzJTIxNWUwJTIxM20yJTIxMXNlbiUyMTJzdWslMjE0djE0ODg5Nzc5MTk5NjklMjIlMjB3aWR0aCUzRCUyMjYwMCUyMiUyMGhlaWdodCUzRCUyMjQ1MCUyMiUyMGZyYW1lYm9yZGVyJTNEJTIyMCUyMiUyMHN0eWxlJTNEJTIyYm9yZGVyJTNBMCUyMiUyMGFsbG93ZnVsbHNjcmVlbiUzRSUzQyUyRmlmcmFtZSUzRQ==”][/vc_column][/vc_row]